Housing:
- A wire
mesh cage is recommended for proper ventilation. Carefresh bedding should be used in both
solid floor cages and wire bottom cages.
- The
cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit, larger if the
rabbit is confined most of the day.
- Separate
levels connected by ramps are enjoyable for rabbits.
- The
cage should contain plenty of toys.
The toys placed in the cage can be rotated to keep the rabbit
interested.
- Rabbits
are crepuscular, meaning they are awake and active at dawn and dusk. These are great times to let your rabbit
out of its cage to play with supervision.
- Outdoor
housing hazards:
- Predators
- Fly
strike is a major problem. Flies
will lay eggs on the rabbit and maggots will cause rapid damage.
- Fleas
- Owners
are less likely to catch problems early when the rabbit is housed outside
due to less attention paid to the rabbit.
- Rabbits
cannot tolerate temperatures below 39°F and above 82°F. They also need protection from the
wind.
- It
is best to house rabbits indoors.
- Indoor
hazards:
- Chewing
electrical cords.
- Poisonous
plants, including dumbcane and oleander.
- Rabbits
do best when housed separately.
Fighting can result if 2 rabbits are kept in the same cage.
- Rabbits
can be litter box trained. Suitable
litters include organic litter such as alfalfa, oat, citrus, and paper.
- Rabbits
should not be housed in the same house as guinea pigs since they can carry
Bordetella bronchiseptica without
showing any signs. Bordetella can
cause disease in guinea pigs.
Diet:
- Rabbits
require frequent, small meals.
- Pellets: Fresh, good quality pellets without
extra additives (seeds or nuts) should be provided. Don’t buy more than 6 weeks worth of pellets
because the nutritional value declines.
Pellets should contain at
least 18% fiber. Rabbits should
be fed 1/4 cup of pellets per 4 pounds
of body weight.
- Vegetables: A variety of dark, leafy greens (kale,
collard greens, broccoli, spring greens, carrot tops) should be
provided. Avoid beans and
rhubarb. Wash all veggies
thoroughly and introduce new vegetables gradually and one at a time.
- Rabbits
should be fed 3 different types of greens daily and the types should be
varied. Kale, mustard, and spinach
are high in oxalates which may lead to bladder stone formation so limit
these greens to 1-3 meals per week.
- Hay: Free choice timothy hay
should be provided at all times.
Timothy hay is preferred over alfalfa hay since alfalfa is higher
in calcium and protein.
- Small
pieces of fruit can be given only as treats as they are high in sugar.
- Rabbits
are coprophagic, meaning they eat specific fecal balls called
cecotrophs. These cecotrophs are
often produced at night or in the early hours of the morning. The rabbits eat them directly from the
anus and this is part of their normal fermentation process of
digestion. The cecotrophs are
smaller than normal fecal balls and appear mucousy. They are high in vitamin B, vitamin K,
and protein.
Water:
- Fresh
water should be provided daily.
Water should be provided in a water bottle instead of a bowl. Water in a bowl is often quickly
contaminated with food and feces.
- Disinfect
the water bottle weekly and check that the bottle is working properly
daily.
Toys:
- Rabbits
should be given a variety of toys and these toys should be rotated so the
rabbit does not get bored.
- Toys
may include cardboard boxes, baskets, grass mats, and paper towel
tubes. Be sure any wooden toys are
made of untreated wood.
Spaying/Neutering:
- Males
and females are neutered and spayed at 4 months of age.
- Spaying
and neutering has many benefits:
- Rabbits
are healthier and live longer since the risk of reproductive cancer is
lowered and less fighting results due to less sexual aggression.
- They
make better companions. They are
calmer, more loving, less destructive, and less aggressive.
- They
are easier to litter box train and are less likely to spray.
- They
won’t contribute to the problem of overpopulation.
- This
is a safer way to house 2 rabbits in the same cage.
Recommended websites: www.rabbit.org
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