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Tank:
- Size: A minimum of 30-50 gallon
glass aquarium is needed for the smallest turtles. The necessary size of the aquarium will
increase quickly with the growth of the turtle so it’s best to start with
an aquarium large enough to last 1-2 years, then move on to a bigger
aquarium as needed.
- Water area: The water area should
be 1.5-2 times the turtle’s total length in depth, 4-5 times in length,
and 2-3 times in width.
- For
example, a 4 inch turtle needs a pool of water that is 6-8 inches deep,
16-20 inches long, and 8-12 inches wide plus room for a land area. Thus, this size turtle requires an
aquarium much larger than 10-20 gallons.
- Land area: There needs to be a
‘haul out’ area for the turtle to bask.
The land area can be created using aquarium rock and gravel sloped
from the water to the land.
Floating or anchored cork rafts may also be used. There must be several extra inches of
air space between the surface of the land or water and the top edge of the
tank to prevent escape. The land
area should be kept warm and dry.
- It is
best to house turtles alone. Adding
a companion will double the necessary size of the tank.
Water:
·
Temperature:
The water temperature should be kept between 75-86°F. Underwater heaters can be used, however they
must be secured so the turtle cannot knock it over. Be sure to test the water heater first before
placing the turtle in the tank to ensure that it is maintaining adequate
temperature. Monitor the water
temperature as well as the overall aquarium temperature regularly with a good
aquarium thermometer.
o
Younger
turtles require warmer water (82-85°F).
Sustained low temperature (65-72°F) will cause the turtle to stop eating
and predispose it to respiratory infections.
·
Filter: Without the use of a water filter, complete
water changes should be done weekly. If
you are using a water filter, then 10% of the water should be changed each
week. When changing the water, be sure
to replace it with warm water.
·
Water
quality testing: The water should be tested for pH, ammonium, and nitrates
once a week.
Area Heating:
·
If the room temperature is greater than 75°F,
then only a basking light is needed. An
incandescent or spot light allows the area closest to the light to reach 85-88°F.
·
MAKE SURE
THE LIGHT BULB CAN NEVER CONTACT THE TURTLE OR THE WATER!
·
If the room temperature is less than 65°F
overnight, then supplemental heat is needed to provide the proper temperature
gradient in addition to the basking light.
o
A
ceramic heat element can be used.
Ceramic heat elements can be screwed into regular incandescent
sockets. They should not however be
installed into plastic sockets or they will melt the socket.
Special Lighting:
- In
addition to heat, it is essential that you provide ultraviolet (UV)
light. The best UV light comes from
the sun. It allows the absorption
of important minerals and vitamins from the diet. Artificial lights are not as good as the
sun, but they work well. The UV
lights that work best are ZooMed-UVB 310 (ReptiSun) or Vitalite. These are long fluorescent bulbs that
require a hooded fixture. The
lights and fixtures should be a minimum of 24 inches long.
- NOTE:
When purchasing a UV light, make sure it is one of the above brands. If you buy one that goes in a regular
light bulb socket, it will not meet the demands of your turtle.
- UV
light does not penetrate glass or plastic (even the sun), so rest the
fixture on the screen top of your tank.
Electric Shock
Hazard:
- All
electrical cords should be connected to a ground-fault interrupter. Be sure to secure water heaters so
turtles cannot knock them over.
Feeding:
- Variety
is important. Young turtles require
more protein while adults require more vegetables. Do not feed more than the turtle can eat
because excess food will spoil the water.
Turtles should be fed daily.
- Combination
diet:
- Commercial diet (no more than 25%
of the total diet): consists of reptile or turtle pellets/sticks/tablets.
- Animal protein (no more than 25%
of the total diet): consists of live feeder fish and earthworms purchased
at the petstore. Do not use
defrosted frozen fish since these are deficient in thiamine. Do not use backyard earthworms as they
may carry bacteria, parasites, or pesticides.
- Plant (greater than 50% of the
total diet): consists of dark, leafy greens (collards, mustard, and
dandelion) as well as carrot tops, squash, and green beans.
- Avoid
frozen green vegetables since they can lead to thiamine deficiency.
- Raw
fruit can be given as a treat.
Turtles can gnaw on cantaloupe rinds to keep their beaks trim.
Health:
- Consult
your veterinarian if you notice any of the following:
- Cloudy,
closed, or swollen eyes
- Open-mouth
breathing
- Mucous
around the nose or mouth
- Runny
stools
- Loss
of appetite
- Listless
- Spots
on plastron, carapace, or body
- Soft
shell
- Excess
shedding
Recommended websites:
http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html
MOST IMPORTANTLY, ALWAYS WASH YOUR HANDS AFTER HANDLING YOUR TURTLE!
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