The Bearded Dragon

 

Bearded dragons are lizards from dry, hot areas in Australia, which is an important fact to keep in mind when keeping them in your home.  In order to keep your dragon happy and healthy, you must try to recreate their natural environment and diet.

 

General Consideration

 

1.      Adequate Space

a.       This should be minimally 3-4 times as long as the dragon.  They will

need room to move for heat regulation.

2.      No sharp edges or splintering wood

3.      House Bearded Dragons separately

a.       Bearded dragons are solitary in the wild

b.      Even though they may seem to get along, there will be competition for the best food and basking sites.  You will notice one getting bigger than the other.

4.      Cleanliness is key

a.       Daily cleanings will prevent harmful bacteria from growing in the enclosure.

5.      Fresh water always

a.       At least once a day, provide fresh water, as it too can grow bad bacteria; especially if your dragon eliminates in the water.

 

 

Temperature

 

The appropriate temperature in your terrarium is important for proper digestion and the immune system health of your dragon.  One way to provide adequate heat is to create a basking area so that he/she is able to reach appropriate body temperature.  The best way  to provide such an area is through overhead lighting at one end of the terrarium that either rests on top or clamps to the side of the enclosure (the other end should remain cool so that your dragon can regulate his/her own body temperature).  A good spotlight to use is a reflecting fixture (clamp lamp) fro the hardware store that can use a regular light bulb or day light from the pet store.  Rocks and branches can also be used in the enclosure to provide several basking areas at different heights and temperature.  NOTE:  Rocks and branches from your own backyard may not be appropriate.  The main basking area should range from 97°F to 103°F (this should be measured using a thermometer).  The lights can be turned off at night and room temperature should range between 65°F to 70°F.

 

*Never put any source of heat (including heat rocks) or flammable material within reach of your dragon, as these can be the source of burns.  If you are having difficulty reaching the desired temperature with a light alone, you can place a heating pad (on low or medium heat) under the enclosure basking area.  *Under-the-tank heaters that stick to the bottom of the enclosure may burn your dragon.*

 

Ultraviolet Light Sources

 

A UV light is absolutely essential for your dragon as it is important for his/her absorption of necessary minerals and vitamins from his/her diet. Incandescent (regular) bulbs will not shed appropriate UV light, so a fluorescent UV bulb must be provided.  Although the best UV light comes from the sun, commercial bulbs work well enough and are vital for your pet.

 

The best artificial UV lights are ZooMed-UVB310 (ReptiSun) or Vitalite.  These are long fluorescent bulbs that require a hooded fixture. They should be a minimum of 24 inches long.  *UV light – sunlight included -  does not penetrate glass or plastic, so rest the light on the screen top of the enclosure.  These bulbs should be changed every six months, since their energy decreases over time.

 

Cage bottom (Substrate)

 

Bearded dragons will attempt to eat anything that you put in the cage, so evaluate the safety of all cage furnishings and substrate.

 

There are many available substrates for the cage bottom, and there are advantages (a) and disadvantages (d) to each.

           

1.      Sand – both children’s play sand and aquarium sand

a.       Attractive

d.      Difficult to clean, since urine and feces spread throughout; ingestion can be a major problem that causes indigestion or obstruction

2.      Cedar chips, bark, rabbit pellets

a.       Attractive and has a pleasant odor

d.      Same as the sand

3.      Newspaper (not colored print or waxy)

a.       Easy to clean and inexpensive

d.      Not attractive

4.      Astroturf, Indoor/Outdoor carpet

a.       Easy to clean, attractive

d.      May fray if the edges are not sewn

e.        

Astroturf is the best option and is highly recommended.  For easy cleaning, keep two or three pieces of Astroturf on hand.  When one piece becomes soiled, it can be replaced with a clean piece, giving you the opportunity to clean the dirty one and let it dry.

 

Humidity

 

Although bearded dragons require a dry cage, they must get water from daily sprayings and vegetable consumption.  Water should be sprayed on the sides of the cage and on furnishings daily.

 

Don’t expect your dragon to drink from a water dish.  A shallow pan that they can run through can be placed in the cage, but it must be kept clean since polluted water can be a source of disease.

 

Diet

 

Diet is also a very important consideration when trying to recreate the proper environment for your bearded dragon.  When formulating a diet, keep in mind that bearded dragons are omnivores.  Approximately 80% of your dragon’s diet should be leafy greens, 10% should be veggies, and the other 10% should be a good protein source, such as insects.

 

Good examples of greens to feed your dragon include collard greens, endive, dandelion leaves (no flowers), red and green leaf lettuce, romaine, mustard greens, parsley, and beet leaves.  There are many other greens that can be a part of the diet, but the ones listed above are a good start.  The underlined examples provide an excellent source of calcium.  Kale and spinach also provide calcium, but should be limited since they can interfere with thyroid hormone.  You can also give a small amount of fruit and vegetables such a carrot, pepper, cucumber, broccoli, tomato, banana, strawberries and melon.  Stay away from mushrooms, avocado, and berries from outside trees and bushes.  If you’d like to provide a constant supply of vegetation for your dragons, then in addition to the above-mentioned vegetables, potted plants such as purslane, pothos, hibiscus and garden greens can also be placed in the cage.  Purslane and hibiscus in particular are very good for them and these plants tolerate the high temperatures of a bearded dragon habitat.

 

In order to save time, it is a good idea to mix a salad at the beginning and at the middle of the week.  Many people find that putting together such a salad is a chore, so there are ready-made diets available that contain all the essential nutrients your dragon needs.  Unfortunately, dragons do not seem as exited to eat such diets as they are with fresh food, but these diets can be adequate.

 

As for the protein source, dragons can eat large superworms, fruit flies, wax worms, fly larvae, adult crickets and mealworms.  These insects should be no more 1/3 – ½ the size of your dragon’s head.

 

These insects must be “gut loaded,” that is, they should be fed nutritious greens, fruits and vegetables like those mentioned above before they are fed to your dragon.  In addition, vitamins and minerals should be added to the insects’ food.

 

Supplementation

 

Young dragons require calcium and vitamin/mineral supplements if they are to grow well in captivity, and these supplements are recommended for the first year of life.  It is best to use powdered supplements that can be sprinkled over the food every day to promote bone growth.  Be sure to use calcium-only supplements, since phosporus in the calcium supplement can interfere with the calcium absorption.

Veterinary Care

 

Your bearded dragon should receive regular veterinary checkups.  Initially, these appointments should be scheduled every six months in order to obtain a good physical exam, weight, stool check for parasites, husbandry review, and possible blood tests.

 

With proper care, your dragon should grow quickly, reaching adult size in 12 months, and should live a long and happy life.

 

Remember that your dragon can get sick occasionally. If you ever notice quivering, muscle tremors, vomit, diarrhea, odd behavior or a decrease in appetite, stool, or activity, please don’t hesitate to call and schedule an appointment.