| NOTE: This
information is NOT complete and it is recommended that you
thoroughly research iguana care and husbandry prior to
considering an iguana as a pet. This information is intended
as only a starting point. Iguanas are one of the
more difficult
reptiles to care for as their rainforest environment is nearly
impossible to duplicate in our home environment
in North America.
THE
GREEN IGUANA - Quick Reference for Their Care
Iguanas
are from tropical climates. This fact is extremely important
to remember when keeping them in our homes. We live in a
temperate climate, meaning the seasons change and temperature
and humidity do as well. In order to care for iguanas, we must
change the environment to match that of the tropics and
provide a similar diet.
GENERAL
CONSIDERATIONS
1.
Adequate Space
This should be minimally 2.5-3 times as
long as the iguana. They will need room to move for heat
regulation.
2.
No Sharp Edges or Splintering Wood
If there is a sharp edge, your iguana
will find it.
3.
House Iguanas Separately
Even though they may seem to get along,
there will be competition for the best food and basking sites.
You will notice one getting bigger than the other.
4.
Cleanliness is Key
Daily cleanings will prevent bad
bacteria from growing in the enclosure.
5.
Fresh Water Always
At least
once a day provide fresh water. Even water can grow bad
bacteria, especially since many iguanas will eliminate in the
water.
HEAT
The temperature in the
enclosure should vary from one end to the other. In a basking
area it should be 95 - 102 degrees. This temperature is very
important. It allows the iguana to digest and absorb the
proper nutrients from its diet. Also, the immune system works
well at this temperature. The temperature should drop as we
move away from the basking light. Your iguana can then
regulate its own temperature that way, and go to the most
comfortable spot. Iguanas do not produce their own heat like
we can, so they need access to different temperatures to meet
their needs.
Hint:
To produce
the basking light, you can get a reflecting fixture (clamp
lamp) from the hardware store and rest it on top or clamp it
to the side of the enclosure. You can use a regular light bulb
or a day light from the pet store. Never put any source
of heat within reach of your iguana or flammable
material.
NO
heat rocks.
We see many burns.
Remember, if you think they can reach it, they will. If
you can not reach the temperature with the light alone, you
may try an under- the-tank heater. Hint: A heating pad
under the enclosure on low or medium works wonders. Make sure
it is situated under the basking area.
Under the tank heaters that
stick to the bottom of the enclosure have the
potential to burn.
Measure
several spots in the tank with a thermometer to make sure you
have adequate heat and that it is not too hot. All heat
sources can be turned off at night. Iguanas are used to a
temperature drop down to 65 - 70 degrees at night. If it gets
colder than that keep the heating pad or a ceramic heater on
low for additional heat.
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ULTRAVIOLET LIGHTING (UV LIGHT)
The best UV light comes
from the sun. It allows the absorption of important minerals
and vitamins from the diet. You absolutely need a UV light.
There is no question to its importance. Artificial lights are
not as good as the sun, but they work well. The UV lights that
work best are ZooMed - UVB 310 (ReptiSun) or Vitalite. These
are long fluorescent bulbs that require a hooded fixture. The
lights and fixtures can be purchased in pet stores. They
should be a minimum of 24 inches long.
Caution:
When
purchasing a UV light, make sure it is one of the above
brands. If you buy one that goes in a regular light
bulb socket, it will not meet the demands of the iguana. You
absolutely need a fluorescent bulb (long and tubular in
shape). UV light (sunlight included) does not penetrate glass or plastic, so rest the fixture on the screen top to your enclosure.
CAGE
BOTTOM (Substrate)
You
will come across many substrates for your setup. Each has
advantages (A) and disadvantages (D).
1. Cedar chips, Bark, Rabbit pellets
(A)
Attractive, Pleasant odor
(D)
Difficult to clean since urine and feces spread
throughout, Can be ingested and cause indigestion or
obstruction, Few reports of toxicity.
2. Newspaper (not colored print or waxy paper)
(A)
Easy to clean, Inexpensive
(D)
Not attractive
3. Astroturf, Indoor/Outdoor carpet
(A)
Easy to clean, Attractive
(D)
May fray if edges not sewn
Astroturf is the best of
both worlds in ease of use and aesthetics, and is highly recommended. Hint: You can
keep two or three pieces of astroturf on hand. When one gets
soiled, replace it with a clean
one. This gives you an opportunity to clean the soiled piece
and let it dry.
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HUMIDITY
All reptiles
need access to water for normal body functions and shedding of
their skin. The water bowl should be kept near the warmer areas
of the enclosure. This will make the water evaporate, putting
water vapors in the air. Also, a daily misting of the iguana and
cage furniture will increase the humidity and aid in shedding. Hint:
Keep a spray bottle for plants close by for the daily
misting. For open cages use a cool water humidifier (Iguanas do
come from the rain forests). This will provide the best source
of humidity. A weekly bath for the iguana should also be given.
You can use a sink or bathtub depending on the size of the
iguana. Fill with warm water so the iguana can stand
comfortably. Caution: Make sure your the water is not too
hot. If it is too warm for you, then it will be too warm for
your iguana.
DIET
The important
consideration when formulating a diet is to remember that
iguanas are mainly herbivores (vegetarians). Approximately
eighty percent of the diet should be leafy greens such as collards,
endive, dandelion leaves (no flower), red and
green leaf lettuce, romaine, mustard greens, parsley, and
beet leaves. There are many others that can be part of the diet,
but the ones listed are a good start. The ones underlined
provide an excellent source of calcium. Kale and spinach contain
a lot of calcium, but should be limited since they can interfere
with thyroid hormone. The other twenty percent of the diet
should consist of fruits and vegetables such as carrot, pepper,
cucumber, broccoli, tomato, banana, strawberries, melons, and
many others. Caution: Stay away from mushrooms, avocado,
and berries from outside trees and bushes. Hint: Mix a
salad of the above ingredients at the beginning and middle of
the week. This will save you much time at each feeding.
Many
people find that putting together a salad is a chore. There are
ready made diets for iguanas which contain all essential
nutrients, vitamins, and minerals. They don’t seem as excited
to eat these diets as they are with fresh greens, but can be
adequate. Supplementation is important for adequate vitamin and
mineral intake. Calcium must be added to the diet, especially
for the first year of an iguanas life. Hint: Use
suplements that are calcium only (powders or liquid)! Some will contain
phosphorous, which is already too abundant in the iguana diet.
High levels of phosphorous can interfere with calcium
absorption. Vitamin supplements should be used as well. There is
no evidence that spray “on the iguana” supplements are
absorbed. Again, it is best to use powder or liquids directly on
the food.
One
last caution: Do not give meats, monkey chow, or cat or dog
foods. These protein sources should not
be in the diet. This can
be quite taxing on the kidneys, and cause significant disease.
Remember — iguanas are herbivores (vegetarian).
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VETERINARY
CARE
It is
recommended that iguanas receive veterinary checks each six
months initially. This is to obtain a good physical exam,
weight, stool check for worms or other parasites, review of
husbandry, and possibly a blood test. By doing this and the
above recommendations your iguana should live a long and happy
life.
Iguanas can get sick occasionally. If you ever notice quivering, muscle
tremors, vomit, diarrhea, odd behavior, or a decrease in
appetite, stool, or activity, please feel free to call and ask
questions or schedule an appointment.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS INFORMATION OR REQUIRE AN EXAM BY A
VETERINARIAN, PLEASE CALL RADNOR VETERINARY HOSPITAL
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